Note: I allow -- inflict? -- the occasional non-political post on weekends.
This morning, I corresponded with a heroine of Blogistan left on the subject of William Kristol and why even St. Therese of Lisieux would want to slap that smug grin off his arrogant mug. Somehow the subject of chili came up. I'm no cook, but I've been passionate about chili for 25 years. What follows is a somewhat rewritten version of the words I sent her:
Don't worry about using ground beef. It's fine. I like to mix both ground beef and chopped steak, to get a variety. And it's fun to toss in Italian sausage -- the hot stuff, unless you plan to dish it out to sissies.
The secret is onion...lots and lots of onion. When people start telling you "For god's sake, it's nothing but onion in that pot!" just cut up one more onion and you're done. Even with all that onion, a little garlic won't hurt.
Try red and yellow peppers, if they're not too exensive. And green Anaheim chili peppers. If you use canned, I won't inform the chili police. And jalapeno and serrano and every other variety.
Some champion chili makers insist on regularity and uniformity. But I think every pot should be different. Every bite should be different. Chili is jazz. It's improv. It's Pollock, not Poussin. Variety and surprise are good things.
If you use beans (I'm not a purist in this area), I hope you don't use those things they call "chili beans." Go for either red kidney beans or black beans, or both if the pot's big enough. Dark beer is a good liquid additive. So is beef boullion. And one small can of tomato paste should accompany the whole tomatoes.
Use a pinch of every spice in the house -- except for cloves, which I can't stand. Lots of oregano. (I'm Italian.) And lots of chili powder. You have to go to New Mexico to get the very best stuff.
If you can stand to wait, let the pot simmer for six or eight hours, until the steak falls apart and becomes "as one" with the onion.
And if you nice people have any pointers for ME, I always stand ready to learn. Chili is a great and holy thing; in its presence, we are all but humble students.
Mom once told me that Miles Davis used to call up friends and say but one word: "Chili." Then he'd hang up. That was his way of saying "I have made a pot of chili and I would like you to come over and have some." I wish I could invite you all over for a hot bowl of Red.
Added note: Always stir chili with a wooden spoon. Why? 1. Tradition. 2. If someone gives you crap because you used canned tomato paste, you can bop 'im on the noggin with the spoon.
8 comments:
Woodruff. That stuff that's normally grown as a ground-cover. Just rip off some leaves and toss them in. About half a tablespoon per pound of meat.
Amen. I always look excitedly to the first bout of cold weather...
I am fortunate to have received compliments on my chili over the years. I humbly heap much credit on the quality and variety of chili powder I use (I was turned on to a spice house down in Texas, and they sell some amazing blends.) I have some chili blends with which I don't tweak the seasonings at all, at all. Occasionally I get more creative with additional spices. I like a dash of cinnamon, sometimes cumin (if it's not prominent in a blend), a couple of fresh bay leaves and a chipotle or three.
Farm fresh or garden fresh vegetables also lend great flavor. We can tomatoes in the summer so we may enjoy delicious "fresh" chili during the winter.
It's been suggested to me to add cocoa at some point late in the simmer; though, I've not tried. I'd like to try white chili sometime, as well as chili verde (with tomatillos).
Try adding some mole sauce (cinnamon, chocolote, spices) as well as a can of Spicy V* juice. I also add much more cummin than is found in most chili powders.
Joseph,
In the old school of slow cooking, it is believed that red wine brings out a certin flavor in tomatoes (Italian cooking being a good example).
But you can not pour it in any which way. It has to be used to de-glaze. So saute your onions (and peppers and garlic..etc.) then add your meat and let it all brown.... and then de-glaze with a good hearty red wine. Let the wine almost evaporate, then add your tomatoes (and paste or fresh or whatever kind). After this step, you can add whatever else you want.
ah. ah. yes, well.
have to say, my vegetarian taste buds are all aquiver.
and have to admit, i was the chili queen, back in the day.
so, happy to oblige.
i share your attitude; chili is a peasant creation. each pot should be its own masterpiece!
i would use flank steak, sliced very thin on the bias, and brown it seriously to get a good coat of 'stickins' on the bottom of the pan (this is what my dad used to called the browned matter stuck to the pan). set aside the meat.
caramelize the onions in these stickins. this is key; the sweetness takes some of the edge off the tomato acid and blends so nicely with the peppers. (i'd have never put sweet and hot together consciously until i had jalapeno sorbet; and then someone reminded me of red hots from childhood).
once the onions are done, set them aside too, and then pour beer into he pot to loosen the browned stickins. that aroma when the beer hits the pan; exquisite!
plus, and this is the piece de la resistance...
one must add the mole.
depending on your batch, take a bit of cocoa (about a quarter cup per stock pot size or so) in a small heat resistant bowl or mug, then carefully transfer spoonfuls of chili 'soup' to the cocoa and stir to make a paste or roux. do this unti its about the consistency of pancake batter, getting all the lumps out of the cocoa. then carefully turn the roux into the pot, and watch as it turns the chili the BEST color, that rich, bricky red. and the mole binds the chili perfectly. it's just the BEST.
also, i used to soak dried anchos in warm water for a couple of hours and then use water to spice it up, which is also good for making the roux.
and, i'm actually able to make all this vegan! i know, not the same. but surprisingly close.
this was fun; thanks, joe!
An thus, let a new Cannonfire posting tradition begin!
I demand more cooking posts! This was great; especially for those of us who haven't made any good chili in three years because we were broke, lazy, and effectively borrowing kitchen facilities from others.
Damnit, now I want chili.
oh yeah, cumin! cumin is key!
thanks, dqueue and anon.
and beeta is correct; deglazing is essential, and wine is fabulous for tomatoes. but i do love what beer does for chili.
for my taste, i like to keep the ingredients protected after browning, as the deglaze process can turn them soggy rather quickly. so i deglaze, add the tomatoes, then the meat and onions, which hold their integrity better if you wait to return them to the pot.
Avoid the "chili powder" in tiny bottles in the major supermarkets. It's expensive and is a mixture of Chili, Cumin and other stuff. Real chili and Cumin can be bought in large bottles from the more ethnic markets.
I find I use almost as much cumin as chili in my
pot.
Long cooking time mellows-out the spice.
grated parmesan/romano cheese, hot Italian sausage and beer are important.
I make an all-meat chili and put out beans and rice on the side for those that want it.
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